Beginner · Chapter 5 of 16

The Shop, Rerolls, and Unit Tiers

The shop is the tap that feeds your board. Understanding exactly how it's filled — and when spending 1 gold to refill it is a good deal — is one of the highest-value things a new player can learn. Full numbers live on the Shop Odds page; this chapter explains what they mean.

How the shop is filled

You always see 6 shop slots. Each slot rolls a rarity based on your player level, then a random Pokémon of that rarity that still has copies left in the pool. The rarity odds shift heavily as you level:

LevelCommonUncommonRareEpicUltra
1100%
2100%
370%30%
450%40%10%
536%42%20%2%
625%40%30%5%
716%33%35%15%1%
811%27%35%22%5%
95%20%35%30%10%

Read the pattern, not the exact digits. At level 3–4 you're swimming in Commons and Uncommons. Rares become common around level 6. Epics don't show up meaningfully until level 7–8, and Ultras basically require level 8–9. This is why "what level should I be" is really the question "what rarity am I trying to find". Unique and Legendary Pokémon don't appear in the normal shop at all — they come from portal rounds and a few special items.

The shared pool

Every player in the lobby rolls from one shared pool. There is a fixed number of copies of each Pokémon in it:

  • Common: 27 copies each
  • Uncommon: 22 each
  • Rare: 18 each
  • Epic: 14 each
  • Ultra: 10 each

Two consequences. First, when another player is buying every copy of the Pokémon you also want, your odds of hitting it drop — this is called contesting, and it's a real reason to switch plans. Second, when you sell Pokémon, the copies go back into the pool and can be rolled by anyone (including you). Scouting other boards to see who's on what tells you which pools are drained and which are wide open.

Rerolling: when is 1 gold worth it?

A reroll costs 1 gold and replaces all six slots. Whether that's a good deal depends entirely on your gold situation and what you're looking for.

  • Don't reroll below 50 gold in the early–mid game. Every 10 gold you bank earns 1 gold of interest per round (up to +5). Rolling your gold below 50 breaks an interest bracket and costs you compounding income.
  • Do reroll when you're "rolling down" — deliberately spending a stockpile of gold to find specific units, usually to hit 3-stars. This is a committed play: you drop from 50+ gold to near zero over one or two rounds, star up your board, and then rebuild economy. Timing it right (a breakpoint level, a losing board you must stabilise) is a mid-game skill.
  • Do reroll a genuinely dead shop in the early game if you have spare gold above your interest bracket and your board would otherwise be embarrassing this round.
  • Don't reroll hunting for a specific Epic at level 6. The odds are so low you'll burn your whole economy. Level up first so the rarity you want is actually likely to appear.

Unit "tiers" — power vs. rarity

Rarity sets a Pokémon's shop cost (1 gold for Common up to 5 for Ultra) and its base stat budget, but it does not tell you how strong the unit is in the current meta. A well-supported Rare carry at 3 stars can beat a lonely Epic at 2. What actually determines a unit's real-world strength is: its star level, its items, whether its synergies are active, and how the current patch has tuned its ability. The item tier list and comp meta on this site are built from real game results and are a better guide to "is this good" than rarity ever is.

Default early-game behaviour: don't reroll at all on rounds 1–8 unless your shop is truly useless and you're above your interest bracket. Save the gold, hit your levels, and roll with intent later.
Beginner track — all chapters
  1. What Pokémon Auto Chess Is
  2. Core Match Flow and Board Basics
  3. Pokémon Units: Stats, Roles, and Positioning
  4. Buying, Benching, and Building Your Team
  5. The Shop, Rerolls, and Unit Tiers
  6. Combining Copies and Star Upgrades
  7. Evolutions: Requirements, Timing, and Strategy
  8. Items: Types, Effects, and Best Holders
  9. Economy: Gold, Interest, Winning, and Losing Streaks
  10. Experience, Levels, and Board Capacity
  11. Synergies: Types, Thresholds, and Team Bonuses
  12. Stacking Synergies Without Weakening the Board
  13. Early-, Mid-, and Late-Game Strategy
  14. Scouting Opponents and Adapting Your Composition
  15. Common Beginner Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
  16. A Simple First-Game Checklist